Tänane päev algas jälle vihmasajus. Õnneks oli selja taga tõeliselt hea sügava unega öö. Nii, et vihmariided selga ja jälle sadulasse. Mida reisi lõpupoole, seda lühemad päevad oleme planeerinud. Tänases plaanis on ainult üks peatus – Turu kindluses.
Sõit Turu poole kulges läbi vihmasaju, mis tasapisi jäi järjest nõrgemaks ja nõrgemaks. Enne Turut oli asfalt juba põhimõtteliselt kuiv. Siiski tervitas Turu linn meid viimasel hetkel tugeva vihmasajuga. Peale mõningast seiklemist leidsime siiski sobiva parkimiskoha lossi kõrval. Vihmasadu oli nii kõva, et me ei võtnud isegi kiivreid peast, vaid suundusime lossis olevasse muuseumisse.
Today began in the rain again. Luckily we had a really good, deep night’s sleep behind us. So: rain gear on and back in the saddle. The closer we get to the end of the trip, the shorter the days we have planned. Today’s plan holds only one stop — Turku Castle.
The ride towards Turku went through rain that gradually grew weaker and weaker. Before Turku the asphalt was basically dry already. Even so, the city of Turku greeted us at the last moment with heavy rain. After some adventuring we did find a suitable parking spot beside the castle. The rain was so hard that we did not even take our helmets off, but headed straight for the museum inside the castle.
Loss oli huvitava ajalooga ja siin “kohtusime” jälle tegelastega, kellest oli juttu Uppsalas.
Turu linnus rajati 1280. aastate paiku Aura jõe suudmesse rootslaste sõjalise tugipunktina ja on koos toomkirikuga Soome suurim säilinud keskaegne hoone. Hiilgeaeg jäi 16. sajandisse, kui siin pidas õukonda Gustav Vasa poeg Johan, Soome hertsog: koos abikaasa Katariina Jagellonicaga muutis ta karmi kindluse renessansipaleeks, kuhu ehitati kuninga ja kuninganna saalid ning kus peeti uhkeid vastuvõtte. Uppsala looga seob Turut Johani vanem vend, kuningas Erik XIV. Tema jaoks tegi see linnus täisringi: 1563. aastal võttis ta kindluse oma vennalt ära, seitse aastat hiljem toodi kukutatud kuningas siia tagasi – seekord vangina, koos oma naisega, ja nad elasid siin aasta aega.
The castle has an interesting history, and here we “met” again the characters we had heard about in Uppsala.
Turku Castle was founded around the 1280s at the mouth of the Aura river as a Swedish military outpost, and together with the cathedral it is the largest surviving medieval building in Finland. Its golden age fell in the 16th century, when Gustav Vasa’s son John, Duke of Finland, held court here: with his wife Catherine Jagiellon he turned the stern fortress into a Renaissance palace, where the King’s and Queen’s halls were built and lavish receptions were held. What ties this place to the Uppsala story is John’s elder brother, King Erik XIV. For him the castle came full circle: in 1563 he took the fortress from his brother, and seven years later the deposed king was brought back here — this time as a prisoner, together with his wife, and they lived here for a year.
Vendade tüli sai alguse poliitikast. Johan ajas Liivimaal oma joont ja abiellus 1562. aastal Vilniuses Poola printsessi Katariina Jagellonicaga, küsimata luba oma vanemalt vennalt, kuningas Erik XIV-lt. Erik pidas seda riigireetmiseks. 1563. aasta suvel saatis ta Turu linnuse alla 10 000 meest ja 12. augustil kindlus alistus. Johan mõisteti surma, kuid sai armu ning istus koos Katariinaga neli aastat Gripsholmi lossis vangis. 1568. aastal, vabaks saanuna, tõukas ta koos noorema venna Karliga Eriku troonilt ja sai ise kuningaks Johan III nime all. Erik suri 1577. aastal vangistuses.
Huvitav on ka selle aegne pereelu. Johan elas Turu linnuses koos Karin Hansdotteriga. Karin oli lihtsat päritolu ja huvitava taustaga. Nimelt oli tema isa eelnevalt olnud munk ja ema nunn. Karin tuli hertsogiga Turusse 1556. aastal, teda kutsuti „meie armuliseks emandaks“ ning tal oli linnuses oma õukond ja teenijad. Neile sündis neli last, kes said perekonnanimeks Gyllenhielm. Kui Johan otsustas abielluda Katariinaga siis anti Karin 1562. aastal naiseks hertsogi teenrile, aadlik Klas Anderssonile. Kuningaks saades toetas Johan Karinit ja nende lapsi edasi.
The quarrel between the brothers began with politics. John pursued his own line in Livonia and in 1562 married the Polish princess Catherine Jagiellon in Vilnius without asking permission from his elder brother, King Erik XIV. Erik considered it high treason. In the summer of 1563 he sent 10,000 men to Turku Castle and on 12 August the fortress capitulated. John was sentenced to death but was pardoned, and spent four years imprisoned with Catherine at Gripsholm Castle. In 1568, once free, he and his younger brother Karl pushed Erik off the throne and he became king himself as John III. Erik died in captivity in 1577.
The family life of that time is interesting too. John lived at Turku Castle with Karin Hansdotter. Karin was of humble origin, with an interesting background. As it happens, her father had previously been a monk and her mother a nun. Karin came to Turku with the duke in 1556, she was called “our gracious lady” and she had her own court and servants at the castle. They had four children, who took the family name Gyllenhielm. When John decided to marry Catherine, Karin was given in marriage in 1562 to the duke’s servant, the nobleman Klas Andersson. On becoming king, John went on supporting Karin and their children.
Kindluse õues ringi jalutades oli kuulda muusikat. Lossi tagumisest väravast välja astudes nägi üle aia kõrval olevat rockkontserti. Laval olev laulja tundus mingil moel tuttav, veidi uurimist kinnitas minu sisetunnet. Nimelt oli tegemist Michael Monroega. See laulja oli kunagi osa bändist nimega Hanoi Rocks. See oli vist üks Soome taustaga kuulsamaid bände maailmas. Niipalju kui üle aia paistis oli ta oma 64 eluaastale vaatamata väga heas vormis.
Walking around the castle yard we could hear music. Stepping out of the castle’s back gate, we saw a rock concert over the fence next door. The singer on stage seemed somehow familiar; a little digging confirmed my hunch. It was in fact Michael Monroe. That singer was once part of a band called Hanoi Rocks. That was probably one of the most famous bands with Finnish roots in the world. As far as we could see over the fence, he was in very good shape despite his 64 years.
Meie tänane päev lõppes Nauvo saarel Turu saarestikus. Siinne väike kämping võttis meid vastu pohlade ja mustikatega. Nagu allpool oleval pildil näha olid vees ka mõned ujujad.
Our day today ended on the island of Nauvo in the Turku archipelago. The small campsite here welcomed us with lingonberries and blueberries. As can be seen in the photo below, there were a few swimmers in the water as well.
Sättisime ennast mõnusalt sisse. Homseks eesmärgiks on tegeleda aktiivselt mittemillegi tegemisega. Miks mitte juba reisi ajal ennast reisist veidi välja puhata.
We settled in comfortably. Tomorrow’s goal is to actively do nothing at all. Why not rest up from the trip a little while still on the trip.
Meie tänane teekond | Our trip today
