Täna tegeleme turismiga. Plaan on avastada Gotlandi saart. Põhimõtteliselt oli kaks valikut kas minna põhja või lõunasse. Meie valisime põhjasuuna. Nagu oleks ühest saarest veel vähe, siis valisime sihtkohaks Fårö saare. See asub Gotlandist põhjas ja ülesõit maanteeameti praamiga võtab aega mitte rohkem kui 10 minutit.
Põhilisteks vaatamisväärtusteks sellel suunal on erinevad kivist moodustised, aga nendest juba allpool lähemalt.
Today we are all about tourism. The plan is to explore the island of Gotland. Essentially there were two choices – to head north or south. We chose the northern direction. And as if one island were not enough, we picked Fårö as our destination. It lies north of Gotland and the crossing on the road administration’s ferry takes no more than 10 minutes.
The main sights in this direction are various stone formations, but more on those below.
Erinevalt Rootsist, kus kõikjal paistavad graniidist kaljud, on Gotland lubjakivi alusel. Kontrollimata andmetel on Gotlandi all väga ammune korallrahu. Saar oli 400 miljonit aastat tagasi ekvaatori lähedal ja seal on leitud isegi naftat. Lubjakivi on seal erinevat sorti, tugevamat ja saviga segatud nõrgemat (mille nimi on mergel). Kogu selle asja tulemuseks on see, et mere ääres uuristavad erinevad loodusjõud nõrgemad kivimid välja ja järele jäävad huvitavad moodustised, mida kohapeal kutsutakse raukideks.
Lickershamnis asub neist suurim, selle nimeks on Jungfrun (neitsi) ja see on umbes 12 meetrit kõrge. Selle kohta on olemas ka kurva lõpuga legend, mis sisaldab armunud noori ja pahurat isa. Igatahes avanesid kõrgelt kaljult imelised vaated merele ja kalurikülale.
Unlike Sweden, where granite cliffs show everywhere, Gotland rests on limestone. According to unverified information, there is a very ancient coral reef beneath Gotland. 400 million years ago the island lay near the equator, and oil has even been found here. The limestone comes in different kinds – a harder one, and a weaker one mixed with clay (called marl). The result of all this is that along the sea the various forces of nature erode the weaker rock away, and what remains are the interesting formations known locally as raukar.
Lickershamn is home to the largest of them, named Jungfrun (the maiden), standing about 12 metres tall. There is even a legend with a sad ending about it, involving young lovers and a grumpy father. In any case, from high on the cliff wonderful views opened out over the sea and the fishing village.
Peale jalutuskäiku avastasime leti, kus müüdi suitsukala. Seda oli seal palju erinevaid sorte. Meie valisime wasabiga lõhe ja pistsime selle kohapeal nahka. Maitses väga hästi, kuigi must kohv ja suitsukala ei ole just kõige tavapärasem kooslus.
After the walk we came across a stall selling smoked fish. There were many different kinds. We chose the wasabi salmon and ate it right on the spot. It tasted very good, although black coffee and smoked fish are not the most usual pairing.
Järgmise peatuse tegime Lärbro kiriku juures. Selle kiriku omapäraks on kaheksanurkne kellatorn. Selle kellatorniga on küll nüüd see lugu, et ta enam ei olegi kellatorn. Millalgi 16. sajandil lõhkus torm kiriku torni ja kellatorn viidi üle kõrval olevasse neljakandilisse kastelli torni. Kastell on huvitav kindlustatud objekt, mida kasutati nii varjupaigana sõjaolukorras kui ka toiduainete ja muu väärtusliku kraami hoidmiseks segastel aegadel. Kuna Gotlandil oli vanal ajal rikkust palju, siis on ka sealsed kirikud päris uhked.
We made our next stop at Lärbro church. This church’s peculiarity is its octagonal bell tower. The thing with that bell tower, though, is that it is no longer a bell tower at all. Sometime in the 16th century a storm destroyed the church spire, and the bells were moved to the four-cornered castle tower next door. The kastell is an interesting fortified structure, used both as a refuge in times of war and for storing food and other valuables in troubled times. Since Gotland was very wealthy in the old days, its churches are quite grand too.
Kiriku juures olid eksponeeritud hauakivid. Kuna ma nendel olevast tekstist tuhkagi aru ei saanud, siis tegin pildi ja palusin AI-l selgitada, mis sellele on kirjutatud. Nii tuligi välja, et hauakivi kuulus ühele mehele, kes oli sexman. See kõlas väga intrigeerivalt ja ajendas edasi uurima. Selgus siiski, et sellel ei ole otsest sidet seksiga (kuigi on mingil määral kaudne). Sexman oli üks kuuest usaldusisikust, kes aitas kiriku varasid hallata ja auditeeris koguduse arvepidamist. Hiljem muutus see positsioon pigem moraalipolitsei laadseks. Need olid inimesed, kes kogusid infot amoraalse käitumise juhtumite kohta ja kandsid need kirikuõpetajale ette.
Gravestones were on display by the church. Since I could not make head or tail of the text on them, I took a photo and asked an AI to explain what was written. It turned out that the gravestone belonged to a man who was a sexman. That sounded very intriguing and prompted more digging. It emerged, however, that it has no direct connection to sex (though there is a somewhat indirect one). A sexman was one of six trusted men who helped manage the church’s assets and audited the parish’s accounts. Later the role became more like a morality police – people who gathered information about cases of immoral behaviour and reported them to the pastor.
Kiriku juures asus ka ühishaud, kuhu olid maetud koonduslaagri endised vangid. Ka see kõlas intrigeerivalt – koonduslaager Rootsis. Tegelikult oli aga lugu järgmine. 1945. aastal vabastati Saksamaal vangid paljudest laagritest ja Punane Rist paigutas need haiglatesse üle Euroopa. Gotlandile toodi neid umbes 500. Kahjuks paljud olid siiski liiga nõrgad ja nende elu vabaduses jäi lühikeseks. Nüüd on nende puhkepaik kaunis kiriku surnuaias.
Järgmine lühike peatus oli praamil, mis viiski meid Fårö saarele. Seal alustasime lõunasöögiga mõnusas pastarestoranis, mis asus ühe talu juures. Seal pakuti maitsvat kohapeal valmistatud pastat. Täis kõhuga olime valmis uuteks seiklusteks Fårö saarel.
By the church there was also a communal grave where former concentration-camp prisoners had been buried. That too sounded intriguing – a concentration camp in Sweden. The real story, though, was this. In 1945 prisoners were freed from many camps in Germany, and the Red Cross placed them in hospitals across Europe. About 500 were brought to Gotland. Sadly, many were still too weak, and their lives in freedom were cut short. Now their resting place is in the beautiful church cemetery.
The next short stop was the ferry that took us over to Fårö. There we started with lunch at a cosy pasta restaurant beside a farm, where they served tasty pasta made on the spot. With full stomachs we were ready for new adventures on Fårö.
Järgmiseks peatuskohaks oli Gamla hamn – vana sadam. See koht on ka kuulus oma kivist moodustiste poolest. Viikingite ajal oli selles kohas vaikne lahesopp, mida kasutati sadamana. Nüüd on loodusjõud selle lahe sulgenud ja alles on jäänud väike jäänukjärv. Siin võib näha kõige huvitavama kujuga kuju, mis meenutab väga koera.
Our next stop was Gamla hamn – the old harbour. This place is also famous for its stone formations. In Viking times there was a quiet cove here, used as a harbour. Now the forces of nature have closed off the bay, and all that remains is a small relict lake. Here you can see the most interestingly shaped rauk, which looks very much like a dog.
Fåröl külastasime ka kohalikku tuletorni. See aga erilist muljet ei avaldanud. Torni sisse ei pääse ja väljaspoolt ei olnud see eriti muljetavaldav. Muljet avaldasid hoopis rohkem looduslikult kasvavad kirsipõõsad, mis tuletorni aia ääres kasvasid ja kust võis kirsse maitsta. (Loodan, et ikka võis).
On Fårö we also visited the local lighthouse. It did not make much of an impression, though. You cannot get inside the tower, and from the outside it was not especially striking. What impressed us far more were the wild cherry bushes growing along the lighthouse fence, from which you could taste cherries. (I hope you were allowed to.)
Fåröle on maetud ka kuulus filmitegija Ingmar Bergman. Ta olevat saare enda jaoks avastanud filmi tehes. Saarele sattus ta aga hoopis töös oleva filmi napi eelarve tõttu, mis ei võimaldanud võtteid algselt planeeritud Orkney saarel Šotimaal. Bergmanile meeldis saare rahu ja loodus. Lisaks leidsid nad rannast ka vana laevavraki, mis oli juba stsenaariumisse sisse kirjutatud. Bergman tegi saarel mitu filmi ja jäigi siia elama. Tema põrm on maetud kohaliku kiriku surnuaeda.
The famous filmmaker Ingmar Bergman is also buried on Fårö. He is said to have discovered the island for himself while making a film. He ended up here, though, because of the tight budget of a film in production, which ruled out shooting on the originally planned island of Orkney in Scotland. Bergman loved the island’s peace and nature. On top of that, they found an old shipwreck on the beach that had already been written into the screenplay. Bergman made several films on the island and stayed on to live here. His ashes are buried in the local church cemetery.
Meie tänane teekond | Our trip today
